Discontinued Audemars Piguet Models You Should Know
For collectors, the world of Audemars Piguet extends far beyond the boutiques’ glass cases. While the brand continues to innovate with current collections like the CODE 11.59 and the ever-evolving Royal Oak, there is a universe of horological history quietly waiting to be discovered in discontinued references. When a model is retired, its story doesn’t end; it often enters a new, more intriguing chapter.
The appeal of discontinued Audemars Piguet watches is multifaceted. Primarily, it is about scarcity. Once a reference is discontinued, the total supply is fixed forever. While scarcity alone doesn’t guarantee desirability, when combined with the enduring prestige of the AP name, it creates a powerful catalyst for long-term value and collector interest.
Beyond the investment logic, there is a more romantic reason to hunt for these pieces. Discontinued models often offer a different feel compared to their modern counterparts. They showcase original proportions, unique design experiments, and the authentic patina that comes with age. Hunting for a specific reference—learning its production history, the rarity of its dial variations, and finding a pristine example—is one of the true joys of serious watch collecting.
Whether you are a seasoned collector or a newcomer looking to deepen your understanding, here are some of the most significant discontinued Audemars Piguet models you should know.
The One That Started the Modern Craze: Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 15202ST
Discontinued: 2022
If there is one modern Audemars Piguet that defines the collector market, it is the reference 15202ST. Launched in 2000, this model was the direct spiritual heir to Gerald Genta’s original 1972 Royal Oak ref. 5402, often called the “A-Series.” For over two decades, the 15202ST was the purest expression of the Royal Oak ideal: a 39mm stainless steel case of breathtaking thinness, powered by the legendary ultra-thin automatic caliber 2121.
When Audemars Piguet discontinued the 15202ST in 2022 to make way for the updated ref. 16202 (which featured a new in-house movement), demand for the outgoing model skyrocketed overnight. Why the fervor? For purists, the 15202ST represented the final chapter of the original Royal Oak lineage before the modern updates. It was the watch that looked almost identical to the 1972 icon but with the reliability of a modern production piece. Owning a 15202ST is akin to owning a piece of design history in its most classic, unadulterated form.
The Perfectly Proportioned Alternative: Royal Oak Selfwinding ref. 14790ST
Discontinued: 2006
Before the Royal Oak became synonymous with the 39mm “Jumbo” case, there was a time when the collection explored different dimensions. Launched in 1992, the ref. 14790ST is a 36mm Royal Oak that offers a compelling alternative for collectors who prefer a subtler wrist presence.
It is important to note that a Royal Oak wears larger than its case diameter suggests due to the integrated bracelet. A 36mm Royal Oak often fits like a conventional 39mm watch, making it an excellent choice for those with smaller wrists or for collectors who appreciate the vintage sizing of the 1990s.
Beyond its dimensions, the ref. 14790ST is notable for its experimental dials. While you can find it in classic black or silver, this reference is famous for featuring the coveted Yves Klein blue dial, and even incredibly rare variants like the “Ferrari Red.” This era represents a time when AP was testing the waters of what the Royal Oak could become, and the 14790ST is a beautiful snapshot of that experimentation.
The Original “Beast”: Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph ref. 25721ST
When Audemars Piguet decided to celebrate the Royal Oak’s 20th anniversary in 1993, they did so by completely reimagining the design. The result was the Royal Oak Offshore, nicknamed “The Beast” for its massive (for the time) 42mm case and bold, masculine aesthetic. The original Offshore Chronograph, reference 25721ST, established the collection’s reputation for unapologetic presence.
Today, these early Offshore chronographs are regarded as historically significant. They marked the moment when the luxury watch industry embraced the trend toward larger, more aggressive designs. The ref. 25721ST is the ancestor of every modern Offshore that followed.
For the serious collector, there is a holy grail within this reference: the first 100 examples (serial numbers D23744 to D23843). These early pieces feature a case back without the “Offshore” engraving, a subtle variation that makes them the most coveted versions of this iconic model.
The Functional Offshoot: Royal Oak Offshore Diver ref. 15703ST
Discontinued: Mid-2010s
While the Royal Oak is a sports watch, and the Offshore is an evolution of that sportiness, the Offshore Diver was built with a specific purpose in mind. Launched in 2010, the ref. 15703ST brought the Royal Oak design language into the world of serious dive watches.
With a robust 42mm stainless steel case, 300 meters of water resistance, and a rubber strap instead of the traditional integrated bracelet, the 15703ST was a purpose-built tool watch. It proved that a luxury icon could also be a genuinely capable dive instrument. For collectors looking for an entry point into AP’s heritage that offers both character and functionality, the discontinued 15703ST represents excellent value and a unique chapter in the Royal Oak story.
The Birth of a Women’s Icon: Royal Oak Quartz Lady ref. 56023
Discontinued: ~1990
The Royal Oak’s history isn’t only about masculine, oversized chronographs. The ref. 56023, launched in 1982, is a crucial piece of the brand’s history as the first mid-sized Royal Oak powered by a quartz movement.
Produced in yellow gold and steel variants, this 36mm watch captured the architectural rigor of Genta’s original design in a more refined package. It arrived at the height of the Quartz Crisis, and AP leaned into the technology, giving it a seconds hand that visibly ticked—a novelty for a Royal Oak at the time.
As the market for vintage quartz watches matures, references like the 56023 are gaining recognition. They represent a specific era of watchmaking history and offer collectors a chance to own a piece of AP’s legacy at a more accessible price point than their mechanical counterparts.
A Deep Cut for the Connoisseur: The Royal Oak Offshore “End of Days” Predecessor ref. 25770ST
Beyond the main catalog, some discontinued models are celebrated for their unique collaborations and designs. The Royal Oak Offshore ref. 25770ST is one such example. Launched in 1997, this reference serves as the predecessor to the legendary “End of Days” limited edition, which was a collaboration with Arnold Schwarzenegger.
What makes this specific reference stand out is its unique Kevlar strap. The double-fastening strap, made of Kevlar, nylon, and leather, is arguably one of the most distinctive and comfortable straps ever fitted to an Offshore. The watch itself features a striking blue dial with Arabic numerals and chrono registers, housed in a non-PVD stainless steel case with the same cut-out ends as its more famous successor. For the true enthusiast, spotting one of these in the wild is an unforgettable experience.
The Legacy of Complications
It is impossible to discuss Audemars Piguet’s discontinued models without acknowledging their mastery of complications. While much of the public focus is on the Royal Oak, AP’s history is built on creating some of the most complex watches in the world.
The discontinuation of the Jules Audemars dress watch collection in 2019 marked the end of an era, making way for the modern CODE 11.59 collection. While the CODE 11.59 had a controversial start, it has since produced masterpieces like the CODE 11.59 Bolshoi, which features a stunning blue grand feu enamel dial. Such pieces continue the legacy of AP’s high complications, a tradition that includes the groundbreaking RD#4 Ultra-Complication Universelle, which won the Aiguille d’Or at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
For collectors, the journey into discontinued Audemars Piguet models is about more than just acquisition; it is about discovery. It is about finding a watch that fits not just your wrist, but your sense of horological history. Whether it is the classic proportions of a Jumbo, the experimental dials of a 14790ST, or the rugged history of an early Offshore, these are the watches that built the legend.
